Every late Friday afternoon, in a busy market at the intersection of Bowenpally and Sikh village in Hyderabad, a small group of men gather to begin a rather peculiar ritual. Pouting their red lips they spit a jet of red liquid. They try to say something to each other but they spit again. The ritual continues until a clamorous mob around them drowns their voices.
These men fade into the market’s background and nobody regards their obsession to spit and chew. It may seem strange, but for these compulsive chewers the market is their place of utmost sanctity because a corner shop here sells the infamous paan.
The people of Hyderabad are some of the happiest and nonchalant people I have come across in South India. They love nothing more than to take light (Hyderabad’s colloquial phrase for a mood of conviviality). But what do they do then when things aren’t so chill? They relish in their love for paan.
Paan in South India has long been an after food mouth freshener. In Hyderabad, though, paan is the meal for the daring and non-conforming which comes in different flavors for its unique buyer.
The unconcerned people of Hyderabad often eat saada paan [Urdu: plain paan] which is made of nuts and aromatic spices. People chew it, keep it in their cheek and then about half an hour later, they spit it out.
Cautious people who don’t like spitting; prefer the Meetha paan [Urdu: sweet] which oozes grated coconut, candy and pureed rose petals. The sweetest of all flavors is also one of the most juiciest paan to chew. Among the racially mixed population of Hyderabad, millennial Begums and new age Nizams enjoy spitting, rather than chewing paan. A dash of tobacco and some powdered spices offers the zing that such people in Hyderabad are always on a lookout for.
Other paan aficionados in Hyderabad, like older women, avoid eating paan from a designated seller. While doing groceries or on their way around the city, doddery women sneak in a few leaves from handcart vendors, who sell baskets full of betel leaves.
Elderly women eat paan leaves with their distinct concoctions that have probably been handed down from generations before.
Like many non verbal expressions of affection and happiness, Hyderabad’s paan joins other cultural ambassadors like flowers, sweets and clothing to bond with estranged friends. Probably the reason why many people in Hyderabad embellish weddings with threaded jasmine flowers and sweet paan.
Regardless of where the paan comes from, either from an over affectionate wedding host or from a bored seller in an alleyway, paan intoxicates the people of Hyderabad to help them do what they do best: chew at the city’s problems and spit what they don’t concur.
A very common indian problem…they spit where ever they find space…. They never worry of public welfare…
This post is too peculiar likewise…the last one.
Good writing Alisha !!👍
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Keen observation, Deva, people don’t seem to see spitting as bad public behavior 😦
I really appreciate that you read this…Thank you so much.
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I’ve been in Hyderabad several times
visiting the I. T hub .
Also visited Madhapur , which lies bit outside of main city .
I’ve experienced the people having PAAN spit and stuff
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Yes, some people tend to enjoy paan that way, by painting the town red. I hope their behavior changes for the better.
Thank you, Abhi Jeet, for sharing your experience.
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They seem normal while eating PAAN and spitting like it’s a part of their culture.
Visiting Sophisticated I. T. Hub
& experiencing about ‘PAAN spit’ thingy was completely contradictory and a disheartening experience.
But nevertheless it’s India .
People don’t give a fcuk about anything. They do what they love even if it includes violation in the law .
Thank you for taking out this topic Alisha
Keep going ! ✌
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Thank you for the encouraging thought, Abhi Jeet.
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The last line was well articulated..this was a mouth watery post and my take would be the Meetha Paan 🙂
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Haha! Meetha Paan is my favorite too!
It makes me immensely happy that you enjoyed my article, Sunith. Thank you so much for writing your wonderful comments.
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Each post of you is worth a read and what more do I need 🙂
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You are too kind, Suntih, it makes me happy that I am able to deliver content that is making it worth your while. Your feedback is the kind of motivation my young website needs to thrive! I hope to continue to share little bits of this wonderful region for you to enjoy too! Here’s to sharing knowledge in our little blogging community. Thank you again and I look forward to your posts too which has so far motivated me to continue to work hard!
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It is my part of the job here on WP. Let me know which post of yours I need to reblog on Perceptions
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Anything you like the most.. please feel free to re-blog my posts!
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